How evaporation cools a house
A swamp cooler does one trick. A small pump lifts water from a pan to a trough that drips over a pad. A blower pulls hot outside air through the wet pad. Water evaporates into that air, and evaporation takes heat, so the air that comes out is cooler and wetter than the air that went in. The blower pushes it into the house, and because the house is being filled with outside air, something has to give: an open window or a relief damper. A cooler does not recirculate. It ventilates. A house on a cooler changes its entire volume of air many times an hour, which is why it smells like outside and why dust comes along for the ride.
The cooling you get depends on the gap between the air temperature and its wet-bulb temperature. When the air is bone dry, the gap is wide and a good cooler can drop the supply air twenty degrees or more. When the air is humid, the gap collapses and so does the cooler.Why it works in May and fails in August
Phoenix in May: 100 degrees and single-digit humidity. Evaporation is fast, and a cooler is nearly unbeatable for the electricity it uses. It runs a pump and a fan motor, no compressor.
Then the monsoon arrives. The dew point climbs, and the same cooler that produced pleasant air in May now produces warm, damp air that feels like a locker room. The pads are still wet. The pump is still running. The physics simply stopped cooperating. That is not a fault, and no service call fixes it. Homeowners who inherit a cooler sometimes spend a July convinced it is broken. It is not.The parts and what they do
Pads and media
Aspen pads are shredded wood in a mesh sleeve: inexpensive, replaced every spring, sagging and channeling by midsummer. Rigid cellulose media is a thick honeycomb block that lasts several seasons with good water management and evaporates more efficiently, at a higher upfront cost.Pump
A small submersible pump lifts water to the distribution tubes. Valley water is hard, and mineral scale collects on the impeller until it stalls.Float valve
A fill valve, like the one in a toilet tank, that holds the pan level. When it sticks open, the pan overflows onto the roof and into the duct curb.Motor and blower
Most residential coolers use a belt-driven blower with a two-speed motor. Belts glaze and crack, bearings want oil, and a squeal at startup is the first warning.Bleed-off or purge pump
A line that dumps a little water continuously, or a pump that empties the pan on a timer, so minerals do not concentrate. Without one, the pads crust white within weeks.Where you find it in Phoenix homes
Coolers live on the roofs of flat and low-pitched homes from the 1950s through the 1970s in central Phoenix, Glendale, Mesa and Tempe, with a duct dropped through the ceiling into the hallway. Side-discharge units hang on a wall beside older ranch houses. Many of these homes now run both a cooler and a refrigerated system, each in its season. Tract homes built after the 1980s almost never had one. If yours is a pre-war house with no ducts at all, our page on
historic home HVAC covers the choices.
Mixing a cooler with refrigerated AC
The two can share a house. They cannot share an hour. A cooler pushes humid air into a home the air conditioner is trying to dry, and the open windows a cooler needs let the AC's cold air walk out. Run the cooler through the dry spring, then switch to the
refrigerated system when the dew point climbs. The cooler's duct needs a tight damper or a cover so the air conditioner does not blow its supply air out through the wet pads all July.
What typically fails and when
Spring startup
After a winter of sitting, the pan is caked, the pads are dust, the pump is seized and the belt has taken a set. Skipping the spring service is how a cooler becomes a roof ornament.
Mid-season
Scaled pumps, clogged bleed lines, stuck floats and motor bearings. A float that overflows every afternoon finds its way through the roof around the duct curb, and the damage shows up as a ceiling stain in the hallway.
Fall and winter
The danger is not freezing. It is leaving the unit wet and open. A wet pan corrodes the cabinet, and an open duct pours heated air out through the cooler all January. Winterizing means draining the pan, shutting off and draining the water line, covering the unit and closing the damper. Our
maintenance guide explains what a proper spring and fall visit includes.
Keep it, combine it or replace it
This is where we tell people not to spend money.
Keep it if the cabinet is sound and you use it through the dry months. A pump and a set of pads is the cheapest service in all of HVAC.
Combine it if you already own both systems and both work.
Replace it with another cooler only if the cabinet has rusted and you genuinely run it every spring.
Replace it with refrigerated cooling if the house has no air conditioning and you are living through the monsoon on a cooler alone. The
repair-or-replace guide lays out the arithmetic, and
financing on approved credit exists if the answer is a new system. And a cooler uses water every hour it runs, which in this city is a real cost.
From the ground you can confirm the water supply is on, the damper is open and the switch is set to pump before fan. That is the whole homeowner list. Roof access, water lines, belts and motors are technician work. Whether the cooler deserves another season needs eyes on the cabinet and the ducts, not a web page.