What the indoor unit actually does
Refrigerated cooling moves heat from inside to outside, and the indoor unit is where the heat gets picked up. In a heat pump or straight-cool system, that unit is an air handler: a cabinet holding a blower, an evaporator coil and, on a heat pump, electric heat strips for backup. In a gas system, the furnace holds the blower and the coil sits in its own case on top. Either way, the indoor half has three jobs. Move the right amount of air across the coil. Absorb heat and moisture from that air into the refrigerant. Drain the water that results. When any one of the three slips, the outdoor unit works harder and delivers less.The blower, the filter rack and the return
A
PSC motor (permanent split capacitor) is the older design. It has a few fixed speeds, needs a run capacitor to start and stay running, and pushes whatever air it can against the resistance of the ducts. As the filter loads and the ducts fight back, airflow drops and the motor does not know it. It is inexpensive, tolerant and slow to die.
An
ECM motor (electronically commutated) is a variable-speed DC motor with its own control module. It runs quieter, uses less electricity and in its constant-airflow form it holds a target volume of air no matter what the ducts do. That last feature is a mixed blessing. In a Valley tract home with an undersized return, an ECM blower hits its number by working harder, running hotter and wearing sooner. The motor is not the problem. The duct is. Our
airflow testing page explains how static pressure is measured.
The filter, in a slot at the unit or behind the hallway return grille, exists to protect the coil and blower wheel, not to purify the house. A filter that does not seal in its rack lets dust around the edges. A filter too dense for the system raises static pressure and starves the blower. If it is loading in two weeks, suspect a return pulling attic air through a leak, which is a duct problem, not a filter problem.
The evaporator coil and the TXV
The coil is a panel of copper or aluminum tubing and thin fins, folded into an A or an N so a large surface fits a small cabinet. The refrigerant is metered into the coil by either a fixed orifice or a
TXV (thermostatic expansion valve), which senses the coil's outlet temperature and adjusts flow so the coil stays fully used without flooding liquid back to the compressor. A TXV that sticks starves the coil, and a starved coil ices over on a 110-degree day.
The coil's other enemy is dirt. Dust that slips past a poorly seated filter builds a felt on the entering side of the fins that nobody sees without pulling a panel. Aluminum coils also corrode from the inside out in a pattern that produces pinhole leaks, the subject of our
refrigerant leak repair page.
Condensate pan, drain and float switch
Even in Phoenix, a coil can drain gallons a day during the monsoon. The water collects in a primary pan under the coil and leaves through a PVC line with a trap, to the outside or to a plumbing drain. Units in attics sit in a second, wider pan with either a float switch that shuts the system off when it fills, or a drain line that ends over a window. If water is dripping from a small pipe above a window, that is the secondary drain doing its job and the primary drain is clogged. It is a warning, not a feature. Our page on
condensate leaks covers what to do that afternoon.
Where you find it in Phoenix homes
- The attic, in a horizontal cabinet on a platform above the ceiling drywall. This is the usual placement in post-1990 tract homes. The unit runs in 155-degree air, every cabinet leak pulls that air into the system, and the drain pan matters more because the ceiling is directly below.
- A hall or laundry closet, in an upflow cabinet with the return grille in the closet door. Common in 1970s through 1990s homes. Easier to service, tight to work in, often sharing space with the water heater.
- The garage, in older and custom homes.
Homes with rooftop package units have no separate indoor unit at all; the blower and coil ride in the same cabinet on the roof.
What typically fails and when
Early years
Installation choices show up first: a missing drain trap, a TXV sensing bulb strapped loosely, a blower speed set wrong for the ducts. Quiet failures that cost efficiency for years before anyone notices.
Five to ten years
The run capacitor on a PSC blower, a blower wheel caked with dust, an annual drain clog, a sticking float switch, and the first signs of coil corrosion.
Ten years and beyond
ECM control modules, motor bearings, coil leaks that no longer justify a refrigerant top-off, cabinet insulation crumbling into the airstream, and a secondary pan rusted through. A coil replacement alone is possible, but a new coil on an old outdoor unit is a mismatch, and an old-refrigerant system rarely deserves it. That decision belongs in the
repair-or-replace guide. An annual visit catches the middle-years list before it becomes the late-years list, and our
maintenance guide shows what that visit includes.
Coil condition and airflow are measured, not guessed
Two numbers decide whether the indoor unit is doing its job: the static pressure the blower works against and the temperature change across the coil. Both are read with instruments. No web page can tell you whether your coil is clean or your blower is moving enough air. An on-site evaluation can, and a
written estimate follows if something needs to change.