Almost always. Whether you should depends on four things: attic room, a path for ducts, somewhere to put returns and enough electrical capacity. Here is how each one plays out.
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It depends on the equipment and duct layout, but very low attics can still work with a horizontal air handler and flexible duct, while some cannot hold anything at all. We measure on site rather than guess. A flat-roofed house typically moves the equipment to a closet or the roof instead.
It can if chases are cut carelessly. The usual approach in an older home is to route ducts through closets, soffits and the attic so the original walls are left alone. Where a chase is unavoidable, it is planned and finished, not improvised on the day.
Yes, and many owners do for the first summer. Once the central system is balanced and holding temperature, most units come out because the openings leak conditioned air. Seal or remove the sleeves once you trust the new system.
It needs a correctly sized system based on the house as it is, which may be larger than a modern home of the same size. Oversizing is still a mistake. Adding attic insulation before the load calculation often lets a smaller system do the job.
For a single-story slab house with no attic, often yes. All the equipment sits on the roof and a short duct system runs through a soffit or a small attic. It keeps the interior intact, though the roof structure and access need to be checked first.
In the Phoenix market, a house without central air narrows the buyer pool. Whether the retrofit pays back depends on the price point and the neighborhood, and a real estate professional can speak to that better than we can. We can tell you what the work involves.
It varies with the house, the duct routing and whether walls are open. We do not promise schedules from a web page. The evaluation produces a scope, and the scope produces a realistic timeline.
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An on-site evaluation checks attic clearance, duct paths, return air and panel capacity, then gives you a flat-rate quote before any work begins.